The Cordillera Huayhuash is often said to be the most beautiful part of the Peruvian Andes. It’s a land of high grassy valleys, clear mountain lakes, tumbled glaciers and snow-shrouded peaks – all overarched by an impossibly deep-blue sky, where condors soar. The Huayhuash is a landscape of awe-inspiring height and scale, with six peaks over 6000m – including Yerupaja (6617m) the second highest mountain in Peru – and several passes over 5000m. Our route is a challenging 14 day, 170km circuit that leads us right around the range. At night we camp or stay in villages where possible, share meals with villagers in their homes, listen to the haunting Andean harp, and might even coincide with a colourful village festival. There’s also a chance to sample a traditional Peruvian pachamanca feast, and to fish the area’s abundant trout for a delicious mountain dinner. Our guides are natives of the Huayhuash, so we’re shown this magnificent range by people who know and love it best. The people of the Huayhuash area are desperately poor. Our brand of trekking here helps bring much needed income, as well as unforgettable cultural interactions. Profits from the Moving Mountains Project’s Huayhuash treks in 2009 will go towards providing essential equipment for schools in the villages of Llamac, Huayllapa and Pacllon.
Cost
AUD $2700
In 2011 we’ll be walking the Cordillera Huayhuash
July 2011 (dates to be confirmed shortly)
Trip Notes: The Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru
> Download PDF version
The Cordillera Huayhuash is often said to be the most beautiful part of the Peruvian Andes. It’s a land of high grassy valleys, clear mountain lakes, tumbled glaciers and snow-shrouded peaks - all overarched by an impossibly deep-blue sky, where condors soar. The Huayhuash is a landscape of awe-inspiring height and scale, with six peaks over 6000m - including Yerupaja (6617) the second highest mountain in Peru – and several passes over 5000m.
Until a few years ago, the Cordillera Huayhuash was a wild mountain territory that few outsiders had seen. Sendero Luminoso guerillas terrorized the area in the 1980s and early 90s and few people lived in these harsh, high altitude conditions permanently. Until the late 1990s, the Huayhuash remained largely undiscovered by Peruvians and foreigners alike, keeping it mysterious and unspoilt: a real zone for adventure.
The twenty high peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash have long held the fascination of climbers. Joe Simpson´s epic retreat from Siula Grande - that became the Touching the Void drama - first brought the Huayhuash to international fame. In recent years, while other trails have become overpopulated, the Huayhuash has become safe, and has won a reputation as the most challenging - and most beautiful - trekking destination in Peru.
Although the Huayhuash environment is harsh and remote, the landscape here is a peopled one. Quechua speaking herders live in tiny hamlets of stone walled, grass roofed dwellings. On the fringes of the range are adobe villages, surrounded by the terraced fields of subsistence farmers. People here are poor. Although trekkers are discovering the area, tourism has brought little benefit to the people of the Huayhuash themselves. The Moving Mountains Project is working closely with the people of the Huayhuash to reverse that trend.
How we Move Mountains in the Cordillera Huayhuash
Our brand of trekking helps bring much needed income in the Huayhuash. Moving Mountains walks use only local guides, born and bred in the Huayhuash, who know and love it better than anyone. Though our accommodation is mainly camping, we stay where possible in villages with local people and enjoy local hospitality for meals. All after-expenses profits from our trips benefit schools in the Huayhuash. In 2009 we are working with the village school in Pacllon, where we finish our trek. The school has requested computers and a photocopier, and we also hope to build latrines. We will also provide books and classroom materials for schools in the villages of Llamac and Huayllapa, which we visit along the way, to improve educational facilities for the children of the Huayhuash.
The Walk
Our 14 day trek makes a circuit of some 170kms right around the Cordillera Huayhuash. The route leads through a series of breathtaking high passes, all well above 4000 metres, and some above 5000m, in the shadow of awe inspiring, glaciershrouded peaks. We rarely descend below 3000m, making this a taxing high-altitude trek which demands good levels of fitness. Most gear is carried by pack donkeys led by our arrieros (donkey drivers). Walkers carry their personal gear including clothing,
sleeping mats and sleeping bags. Expect to carry about 10-15kgs, depending on how lightweight you pack.
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive Lima. Pickup from airport and transfer to comfortable hotel. Rest of day for relaxing or sightseeing.
Day 2: Depart Lima to the mountain town of Chiquian (3400m). This 8 hour drive takes in spectacular views of the Callejón de Huaylas. Overnight in simple Chiquian inn.
Day 3: Acclimatisation day in pretty mountain town of Chiquian. Morning at leisure, afternoon visit to artesan’s studio. Overnight Chiquian.
Day 4: Drive to adobe mountain village of Llamac (2 hours). Afternoon acclimatisation hike to see Pre-Colombian ruins. Overnight in Llamac homes. Dinner with a local family.
Day 5: Trek commences. Llamac (3300m) to Matacancha (4200m), following the Llamac river steadily uphill to our first campsite on the grassy meadows of Matacancha.
Day 6: Matacancha (4200m) to Mituchocha (4220m) taking in the first pass Punta Cacanan (4700m) and then descending to camp at beautiful Laguna Mitucocha.
Day 7: Mitucocha (4220m) to Carhuacocha (4150m). A steady climb leads to Paso de Carhuac (4650m) followed by the descent to camp Laguna Carhuacocha, brimming with trout and offering spectacular views of Yerupaja (6617m).
Day 8: Carhuacocha (4180m) to Huayhuash (4022m). Here we choose between two routes: the gradual climb to Carnicero Pass (4600m) or the demanding Siula pass (4800m) which leads past three spectacularly blue glacial lakes.
Day 9: Huayhuash (4022m) to Viconga (4395m) via the Portachuelo de Huayhuash (4750m). We descend past Viconga lake, often the haunt of llamas and alpacas. Time to relax in the natural hotsprings at Viconga.
Day 10: Viconga (4395m) to Huanacpatay (4320m). The second highest pass of the trek, Punta Cuyoc (5000m) is crossed today. Spectacular mountain views from the pass in clear weather, followed by the descent to the Huanacpatay Valley and our camp on the dramatic Pampa Elefante.
Day 11: Huanacpatay (4320m) to Cutatambo (4100m). Challenging climb over Cerro San Antonio (5050m) our highest pass. Breathtaking views to Siula Grande Base Camp and Siula glacier. Steep descent to camp at Cutatambo.
Day 12: Rest day at Cutatambo – optional hike to Siula Grande Base Camp to view Siula Glacier, of Joe Simpson fame.
Day 13: Cutatambo (4100m) to the mountain village of Huayllapa (3600m) following the gentle Quebrada Calinca. Stay in small inn or villagers’ homes. Tonight there’s a musical evening: a talented village musician plays the Andean harp and sings.
Day 14: Huayllapa (3600m) to Gashpapampa (4500). A big day’s walk, crossing the Punta Tapush pass (4750m) after a long, steep climb out of Huayllapa. Camp at (supposedly haunted) Gashpapampa.
Day 15: Gashpapampa (4500m) to Jahuacocha (4065m). Today we cross Yaucha Pass, the last on the trek, and descend to Jahuacocha, a beautiful spot to set up our camp for the next two days. Will fish trout this afternoon for tonight’s dinner.
Day 16: Rest day at Jahuacocha. Help prepare a traditional pachamanca feast, hike around the lake, and enjoy pachamanca for our last mountain dinner.
Day 17: Jahuacocha-Pacllon (3300). Descend to the village of Pacllon where we will visit one of the schools the project is aiding. Traditional village meal served by Pacllon family. Transfer to Huaraz.
Day 18: Rest day Huaraz – chance to visit Monterrey hotsprings, go to the market, shop for handicrafts. Final dinner together.
Day 19: Early departure from Huaraz for Lima.
Day 20: Optional Lima sightseeing and depart Lima.
The spirit of Moving Mountains walks
Walks with the Moving Mountains Project are different. We want the experience we offer to be a world away from typical tourist treks. Being a not-for-profit trekking outfit already sets us apart. We are also unique in that we walk in small groups with a maximum of just six walkers. On our walks we aim for deep “mountain immersion” which means feeling the isolation and harshness of the high mountain environment, as wall as the warmth and inspiration of real cultural exchange with the people of the Huayhuash. We can’t promise that you won’t see other tourists, but you can be sure
you’ll be experiencing a much more authentic Huayhuash than them. The spirit of our treks means that we journey as a team. Our small group of walkers, guides and arrieros works together. We aim to have no “them and us” divisions between walkers and staff. We eat together, hike together and laugh together. Walkers are welcome to lend a hand in meal preparation and camp setup, if they wish. Our Australian guide is bilingual and our Peruvian guide and arrieros are learning English. Walkers are
encouraged to learn a little Spanish before the trek to help them get the most out of the adventure. We want you to be moved by the experience of walking with us.
Equipment
For a comfortable Huayhuash trek you’ll need well worn in, sturdy boots, a rucksack with a comfortable harness, a warm sleeping bag, an inflatable camp mattress, down jacket or similar very warm jacket, waterproof jacket, waterproof overpants, gloves, hat, wool or polypropylene thermals, lighweight, quick drying trousers/shorts, sun hat, sun glasses, sun screen. A comprehensive gear list will be sent when you book. To keep our costs down, so that we can do more to help in the Huayhuash, we ask you to bring your own tent, if you have one. Please talk to us if you don’t so we can arrange to hire one for you. (Donkeys will carry your tent and our arrieros will be glad
to set it up for you, and pack up in the morning, if you like).
Weather
The trekking season in the Huayhuash is in the dry months of May – September. In this season, there’s little rain and days are warm and sunny (15-20°C). Under clear skies, at high altitude, nights can be very cold – up to -15°C, though rarely less than -5°C.
Fitness and preparation
The Huayhuash circuit is a reasonably strenuous high altitude trek. We cover an average of 15kms each day, walking for six to eight hours, depending on terrain. The walk demands sustained effort, good pacing and endurance, as well as some mental toughness. In preparation we recommend that hikers undertake an hour of sustained aerobic exercise such as running, swimming or bike riding, four or more times a week in the months leading up to the trek. It’s also essential to have done some multi-day hikes prior to this trek. Some long day walks or weekend walks are also recommended as part of preparation for a Moving Mountains trek in the Huayhuash.
Costs
AUD $2700
Cost is inclusive of all accommodation, airport transfers, all meals on trek, all trekking services including experienced guides, donkey hire and arrieros ’ (donkey drivers’) costs. Tent hire will incur an additional charge.
Background notes for walks with The Moving Mountains Project in Peru
> Download PDF version
Getting there: The usual way to travel from Australia to Lima, Peru’s capital, is to fly via Auckland and Santiago de Chile or Buenos Aires. European flights often fly via Spain or the US, and many North American connections are via Los Angeles or Miami. Please arrive at the latest, the day before the trip commences. Please let us know your arrival flight number and time: we can meet you at the airport and can advise on pre-trip hotel bookings.
Travel insurance: Please have comprehensive travel insurance for the whole period of the trip, from the date you leave home to the date you return. Your travel agent can advise you. Prior to departing, we'll ask you to sign a form confirming you have this.
Fitness: This 170km trek is very demanding mainly because of the sustained high altitude – but a walker with good fitness, endurance, motivation and experience of multi-day trekking can achieve it enjoyably. Most of the walking is between 4000m and 4500m and the highest pass is 5050m. The route rarely descends below 4000m over the whole period of the trek and demands 6-8 hours of walking most days. To get the most out of the walk, participants need to have a high level of fitness and to have done some long multi-day hikes (5-7 days, 70+ km) as well as being happy with sleeping in tents and carrying a rucksack. Preparation for the hike should include an hour of vigorous, sustained aerobic exercise (eg: running, cycling, swimming) a minimum of 4 times a week. This must be high intensity exercise: you should be out of breath for the whole hour that you train. Also include some long day walks and weekend walks carrying a rucksack in your preparation. Practice climbing and descending steep slopes. The rule of thumb for any hike is the fitter you are, the more you're able to enjoy the experience. A detailed discussion on fitness is contained in the trip medical form, which can be downloaded here. Please talk to us to ensure your experience and fitness preparation will be adequate to allow you to achieve this walk enjoyably.
What you need to carry: There are two possibilities here. You can either carry your own light rucksack (should weigh less than 15kg) containing your clothes, sleeping bag, camera and personal items, water and lunch; or carry just a light daypack with the gear you need through the day and let the pack donkeys carry remaining gear. If you bring your own tent, this can be carried by donkeys. Please discuss with us if you would prefer to have donkeys carry all your gear except a day pack.
Clothing requirements: Basic requirements are your usual, comfortable hiking boots and clothes, and a very warm - preferably down - jacket to wear at night. A very warm down sleeping bag and a light, comfortable sleeping mattress are also essential. See the trip Gear list here.
Visas: Australian passport holders do not need visas to travel to Peru. There is usually an 8-hour stopover in Santiago de Chile en route to Lima, and if you wish to visit the city rather than remain in the airport, you have to pass through immigration. This incurs an entry fee of about $70 for Australian passport holders. Other passport holders, please check requirements for citizens of your country, or ask your travel agent.
Vaccinations: There are several vaccinations that are necessary for travellers to developing countries like Peru. If you have been in a developing country in the last 10 years, you may have already have had the required vaccinations. The Moving Mountains Project walks medical form details the necessary vaccinations. Please visit your local travel health clinic with this form a minimum of 8 weeks before your trip’s departure.
Staying healthy: The group will have a comprehensive first aid kit and the trip-coordinator has wilderness first aid training. Your travel health clinic will recommend a traveller's medical kit. We ask each walker to bring their own traveller's medical kit containing anti-diarrhoeal medicines and instructions on how to take them. Please also discuss with your doctor medicine to counteract the effects of high altitude, know how to take it and bring this in your kit. Please consult The Moving Mountains Project walks medical form for further information.
Food & Water: In Lima the group will eat in good restaurants showcasing the excellent Peruvian cuisine. In Huaraz and Chiquian we will have tasty food in small guesthouses and restaurants. In the villages of Llamac, Huayllapa and Pacllon walkers eat mostly as locals do: rice, potatoes and meat or fish perhaps with corn or tomatoes. On the hike itself, there are plenty of high-energy foods with two or three course dinners most nights, and sandwiches and sweet snacks during the day. It's important to drink clean water. You will be supplied with filtered and UV treated water each morning and this will be replenished during the day. Please bring a water bottle of at least 2 litres.
Accommodation: in Lima, Chiquian and Huaraz we stay in comfortable hotel rooms with ensuite bathrooms. In the villages the group stay in villagers’ homes where possible, or camps in their compounds. There is no hot running water here and limited toilet facilities. On the trek itself, accommodation is in 2-man tents. There is a large cooking tent to congregate in each evening to socialize, help out with making the meal, and stay warm. There will be a toilet tent set up each night. Half way through the walk there is a chance to wash in warm water at natural hot springs.
Money: If you have a card with a Visa logo on it, you can access your account from many ATMs in Lima and Huaraz to obtain local currency. It is also a good idea to bring some US dollars to exchange. Travellers' Cheques are not widely accepted.
Language: Our local guides and arrieros are learning English, and will be keen to practice with you. They don’t speak much English, though, so any Spanish words you have will be appreciated. Try to learn some Spanish before coming on the walk and bring a small notebook and pen to record words learnt along the way.
